Wednesday 30 March 2022

The Most Important Sticking Ever?

Watch any drummer in any situation -- especially during a drum solo -- and you'll probably see a rather ordinary figure. And you'll see it a lot. That's because the sticking is simple, versatile, easily executed, and very effective … and it‘s a lot of fun to play.

It's this one: RLL (or LRR if you prefer). 

Seriously, Right-Left-Left. Count it as triplets and then just keep doing it: RLL RLL RLL RLL. Boy is that useful! And its variations -- LRR, RRL, LLR -- can be just as useful. Plus , it's real easy way to fake speed.

Buying Time
You probably don't think of diddles as strategic, but they are. The diddle cleverly gives the other hand time to move around, and you can use that time to good effect because it gives you time to move the single stroke around the set. Play the single stroke on a cymbal and the diddle on the snare. Move the single stroke from drum to drum. Do the Buddy Rich thing and play singles on alternate crash cymbals.

A Poly Approach
If you play the pattern as 16th notes rather than triplets, you end up with a cross rhythm with a 3-against-4 pattern: RLLR / LLRL / LRLL / RLLR. In this type of polyrhythm, an 'implied pulse' moves seductively in and out of the time.

Free Samples
There are a number of lines in books like G.L. Stone’s Stick Control that take advantage of this pattern, and many of the figures can be easily applied in a jazz or swing environment or any style of music. Here are a few lines to get you started.

Stick Control  
Page 7, lines 43-44 
Page 9, lines 65-68


Diddle - Two strokes with the same hand, e.g. the various paradiddles begin with single strokes and end with a diddle. Can also refer to interpolating a double stroke where a single stroke would normally be.



Thursday 3 March 2022

Devil In The Details

There are many factors that determine a drum’s sound: size, shell material, hardware, head choice ... there is a lot to consider, and it's easy to get bogged down and confused by the detail. I'd like to recommend my usual don't-sweat-it approach, but it’s still a good idea to become familiar with the factors and concepts that contribute to the final product and, ultimately, your unique personal voice.

Shell Diameter : Each drum's size has a useful pitch range, and that should help determine your choice of sizes. In general, small drums are quieter and higher pitched than large drums. The shell's diameter in relation to a standard head size will also have an effect on sound. A drum that is slightly undersized will have more resonance whereas a shell that fills the head to the edge will have a more robust sound.

Depth: Shell depth affects volume, resonance and decay. Deep shells typically produce a longer, fuller sound. Shallow shells speak quickly, with a short decay.

Material: This is a real can of worms these days. There are at least a dozen different types of wood available, and about as many types of metal. Then there are the synthetics, the exotics, and the so-called ‘hybrid’ shells. The differences range from minor to dramatic, so you need to do a bit of research.

Thickness: Thicker shells tend to have a greater pitch range and good projection. Thin shells often have a lower pitch range and are somewhat mellow sounding. This applies more to wood shells, but is valid for metal and other shell materials.

Plies: Wood drums are most often made of plywood. The plies are held together with glue, which is harder than wood. So the more plies, the more glue and therefore a harder and usually thicker the shell. The thickness of the plies also affects the wood-to-glue ratio and therefore the hardness of the shell.

Glue Rings : Also called re-rings, these strips or plies of hardwood affect the way sound bounces around inside the drum. The general result is a softer tone.

Bearing Edge : The bearing edge is to a drum what a bridge is to a stringed instrument. There are a few factors to consider, but the critical one is trueness.  Dips, bumps or dings in the edge can even render a drum untunable. 

Head: Choice of drum head can have a dramatic effect on a drum's sound, often over-riding all other factors. There are dozens of drum head styles to choose from. The best approach is to experiment with different heads until you find something that works for you.

Rim: The choice of rims (hoops) is nearly as complex as any other option. Triple-flanged steel rims, either welded or spun-cast, are available in different weight, thickness, height, and material. You can also find brass and stainless steel versions as well as single and double-flanged. You'll find die-cast rims on many high-end drums, while the true connoisseur may opt for solid wood.  Each type of hoop will have a different effect on the drum's sound, ranging from subtle to profound.

Bottom Head & Rim : A simple yes or no answer here -- take away the bottom head and you're essentially removing the drum shell from the equation. Single-headed drums produce mostly the drum’s fundamental tone, with little resonance and almost no sustain, whereas a bottom head will trap sound inside the drum where it generates complex tones and resonance.

Finish: The finish on the outside of a shell contributes little a drum’s sound. Drum shells today tend to be thick and heavy, so the presence or absence of, for example, a sheet of glittery plastic will add little to weight, mass or tone.

Attachment(s): The general idea is to avoid attaching anything extra to a drum shell which, it’s argued, will diminish resonance and tone. Each attachment adds more mass, potentially altering the drum’s sound. So-called floating shells have nothing attached directly to the shell.

Putting it all together : The level of care during assembly can make or break the project. An artisan drum maker might meticulously tweak every bolt to ensure it’s properly tightened; factory booting out low-end instruments will use whatever method is fastest and cheapest. An otherwise good drum that was poorly assembled can be frustrating. The good news is that you can fine tune any drum yourself to bring out its total potential.