Hi-hat Quick Start Guide

“Congratulations on your new hi-hat stand -- you are about to enter of world of endless sonic variety. And with a modicum of care, your hi-hat stand will give you years of reliable service and enjoyment.”

That's a sentiment that could accompany every hi-hat sold. Yes, the hi-hat is truly a marvellous invention. Originally a means of imitating orchestral crash or clash cymbals, in the hands of early jazz drummers the device quickly revealed its musical versatility. Today's hi-hat stands are marvels of ingenuity, but did you know that most of what you see on a modern stand has been around almost from day one!

Let's begin with the stand itself. Usually 3-legged, they often have some sort of ‘spur’ in the base to help prevent creep. When setting up, make sure the main post and all feet are firmly on the floor for stability and to engage the spur(s).

At the top of the stand is a cup lined with a metal washer and a felt or rubber cushion to hold the bottom cymbal. There's also a cymbal tilter. This is to help avoid air lock . That's when the cymbals go "fttt" or even stick together. You can also use the bottom cymbal tilter to refine your sound. Note that the heavier hi-hat cymbal usually goes on the bottom.

The cymbal clutch is pretty simple: a wing screw to hold it on the hi-hat's central rod, knurled nuts to adjust the cymbal tension, soft washers to prevent rattle, and another nut to hold it all together. Try keeping the top cymbal slightly loose. Too tight and the cymbal will not respond well; too loose and it will sound ‘splooshy’ and may rattle.

Some hi-hat stands have adjustable tension springs. This is very handy for tailoring the feel of the pedal to your taste and to your cymbals. Heavier cymbals will require more spring tension than thinner, lighter cymbals. A more physical player may want to feel more resistance from the pedal.

Set your hi-hat cymbals about 3-6 inches (8-15 cm) above the snare with a gap of one to two inches (3-5 cm) between the cymbals. This should give you plenty of travel for stomping and also for nuanced playing. Then fine-tune the height, the gap, the spring tension, the angle of the bottom cymbal, and the tension on the top cymbal until you find what’s right for you.

As for maintenance, be proactive. Keep an eye on the various parts and fix or replace early rather than too late. Otherwise your hi-hat stand needs virtually no maintenance. So I guess your main task now would be to discover its many sonic capabilities.

For a bit of fun and inspiration, here are a few links to check out:
     Buddy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hOAi-g-9L-c
     Dave Black: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QThXDgFAdb8
     Max (not Obama): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H8syiOwwVyY